making my M4 a DMR

I'm probably going to get this M4.

http://www.airsplat.com/Items/ER-GG-GR16-R4-P.htm

I'm going to get this grip since it has a bipod built into it.

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_138&products_id=1960


I was thinking of buying this battery, do you think it will fit? (I will be buying it from shortyusa because it is cheaper there)

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_47&products_id=1267

I want an extra mag high cap mag, do you guys recommend a specific brand that is no more than 35? I will be getting a mag clamp.

So basically my gun will be

G&G full stock M4
Bipod grip
9.6v 4200 mah
Two high caps with mag clamp
Red dot

How does that look? Keep in mind, I will need to be able to sprint around a little bit. Do you think with all the accessories, it will be heavy and a little bulky? I'm about 5-6 and about 120 pounds or more. Basically, I want to be a rifleman/DMR, meaning I want to snipe, but I will also need to be able to get around rather quickly.

thanks guys

If you want to fit a DMR look, change a few things.

1. Don't get full length mags, get short VN style ones. They are easier to use while prone, and fit the look more.

2. I wouldn't get the Gripod. Get a designated bipod, and ditch the foregrip entirely.

3. If you want it to be a DMR in function, not just form, focus on accuracy upgrades. Get an M16 length tightbore, 6.01mm, and cover it up with a mock silencer. That coupled with an H Hop system will be very accurate.

4. Save some money, and get a cheaper battery. As a DM, you won't be shooting that much, and a 4200 mAh battery is overkill. Just get something less than 2000 mAh, save your money for more important upgrades.

5. Optics... That's the tricky part. A good optic isn't cheap, so don't plan on spending less than $60 for a quality scope. Check www.matchstickglobal.com for some great optics at an affordable price.

I suggest you set some performance goals and base it off of that.

Good luck!

Booligan wrote:

If you want to fit a DMR look, change a few things.

1. Don't get full length mags, get short VN style ones. They are easier to use while prone, and fit the look more.

2. I wouldn't get the Gripod. Get a designated bipod, and ditch the foregrip entirely.

3. If you want it to be a DMR in function, not just form, focus on accuracy upgrades. Get an M16 length tightbore, 6.01mm, and cover it up with a mock silencer. That coupled with an H Hop system will be very accurate.

4. Save some money, and get a cheaper battery. As a DM, you won't be shooting that much, and a 4200 mAh battery is overkill. Just get something less than 2000 mAh, save your money for more important upgrades.

5. Optics... That's the tricky part. A good optic isn't cheap, so don't plan on spending less than $60 for a quality scope. Check www.matchstickglobal.com for some great optics at an affordable price.

I suggest you set some performance goals and base it off of that.

Good luck!

I do need a 4200 mah battery because we usually go camping and such and I need it to last a while.

I think I'm going to get what I have.

I just want a gun that can somewhat performs and looks like a DMR, but is still good for a rifleman. (so the VN style mags won't cut it do to the capacity) The gun does come with a tightbore stock (not as tight as the one you mentioned, but the gun is suppose to be very accurate) I don't want to make the gun longer (mock silencer) and I don't know how to install hop ups and all that.

thanks for the help

now do you recommend a certain red dot? (like under 50) I may just use the iron sights

^ Stealth what your describing is nothing like a DMR. No DMRs use iron sites listen to booligan's reccomendations and I know for a fact that grip is horrible my friends broke in two games. As for the site maybe the UTG 4x32 with high scope rings (if you don't have much money) and if your a DMR you will most likely fire on semi so you don't need that big of a battery.

^lol, since my suggestions fall on deaf ears, I'll just keep my mouth shut

^haha so I'm guessing thats why you left the site before


Sorry to get off topic

If you want to be a DM, I would listen to Booligans advise, except maybe the battery if you really need the mah. You could always use VN mags, but have a long high cap or two in your vest in case you need them. If you are an actual DM, you will be taking long shots, and will need as much accuracy as possible, so the M16 length tight bore is probably a good idea.

Though I know people who like them, I find the iron sites on M4s often to be hard to use and inaccurate. A red dot is probably your best bet.

theprodigy wrote:

^ Stealth what your describing is nothing like a DMR. No DMRs use iron sites listen to booligan's reccomendations and I know for a fact that grip is horrible my friends broke in two games. As for the site maybe the UTG 4x32 with high scope rings (if you don't have much money) and if your a DMR you will most likely fire on semi so you don't need that big of a battery.

I doubt DMRs use red dots either if we are talking about real life........

Just forget the DMR thing.

Do you think that battery will work? Is there a red dot that you guys recommend? Also, what is a good brand for M16/M4 high caps?

Battery should fit, cant be sure, but seriously, if you use 4200+ rounds in a game, you should really reconsider playing airsoft.

My 2K MAH battery has lasted me over 3000 rounds over 3 games before having to charge it again. It was only 34$ also.

Get the battery, switch to deans, rewire the gun with 16AWG wire, get some sort of Aimpoint, or EOTech replica, or low magnification scope, such as a 2X sight. Upgrade the hop up nub and rubber anyway, G&G stock set lacks. Also replace the crap G&G plastica motor with an EG1000.

That will make your gun into a crazy killing machine, and for not that much also.

I'll give you a price estimate later if you wish.

demosquad_571 wrote:

Battery should fit, cant be sure, but seriously, if you use 4200+ rounds in a game, you should really reconsider playing airsoft.

My 2K MAH battery has lasted me over 3000 rounds over 3 games before having to charge it again. It was only 34$ also.

Get the battery, switch to deans, rewire the gun with 16AWG wire, get some sort of Aimpoint, or EOTech replica, or low magnification scope, such as a 2X sight. Upgrade the hop up nub and rubber anyway, G&G stock set lacks. Also replace the crap G&G plastica motor with an EG1000.

That will make your gun into a crazy killing machine, and for not that much also.

I'll give you a price estimate later if you wish.

I don't have internal experience to upgrade the gearbox. i don't want to upgrade the barrel or hop up. I don't have a sodering gun to switch to dean connectors.

I only went through a bag of bbs during 3 days of airsoft. (games lasting over an hour) I just want to have a battery that lasts a long time.

Thanks for the help, but I don't need an amazing gun.

So are the aimpoints good? My leapers red dot is already crapping out on me. (it doesn't have an off switch.......and the dots will be the wrong color....) About how many hours can you get from an aimpoint? (like on the highest setting)

BTW the battery is only like 50 at shortyusa, so why not get a huge battery for only 20 or so bucks more?

I'm still not sure if I should get the full stock or the collapsible. Any suggestions? I need a gun I can sprint around with pretty good.

Quote :

I don't have internal experience to upgrade the gearbox. i don't want to upgrade the barrel or hop up.

With all due respect, I think it is time you learned. Being able to be self sufficient with your gun, and not having to go to a store that will charge you an arm and a leg for service that can easily be done by yourself, is a very important skill in the world of airsoft.

I would understand if you were hesitant to replace the barrel, because it already comes with a stock TB, but the hop up bucking and nub should be replaced, and I realize you ditched the whole DMR thing earlier, regardless, if you want to acheive excellent accuracy, and take full advantage the nice stock TB, please consider putting in a new bucking and nub, my recommendation would be Laylax and Element respectively.

I could care less if you disregard my suggestions, but realize that people are not going to be willing to help you when you ask for advice and then totally ignore them because the suggestions are not what you want to hear.

Sorry for the rant at the end, just trying to give you some info, take it or leave it.

I respect and agree on what you are saying, but here's the thing............

If I break my gun, then what? I don't buy my own guns, I get them for Christmas/birthday since I don't have a job. If someone would show me how to open up the mechbox, I would be more than glad to learn. I've disassembled my gun several times. Today, my gun stopped shooting and I opened it up and for some reason it started working. Then I adjusted the motor height until the gun sounded quieter. (I hope I did it right )

See, I'm not going to just crack open my gun and rip stuff out since I have no idea on what I am doing. Airsoft guns are so fragile that if you do one thing wrong, the whole gun can break. When I get the M4, yes, I will try to learn how to replace the hop up. I can maybe take it down to the my local airsoft store and ask them if they could show me.

I just don't want to break my gun and then have no way to fix it. I wish I could be independent with my gun, (I have gotten better) it's just I don't know where I can learn how to do it correctly. I prefer videos because written guides aren't as easy to follow.

You don't need to open the gearbox to change the hop-up, just take the barrel out of the gun. Takes about 25 seconds total on an M4.

Go to www.mechbox.com, it'll show you everything you need to know about internals.

Quote :

f I break my gun, then what? I don't buy my own guns, I get them for Christmas/birthday since I don't have a job. If someone would show me how to open up the mechbox, I would be more than glad to learn.

There are many video tutorials and written + picture tutorials about disassembling a an armalite based AEG, and Version 2 mechboxes. Its just about finding and experimenting.

In the rare chance that your gun breaks, thats why we have airsoft communities online, where info can be shared, and questions can be asked and answered. I had trouble with my first AEG mechbox experience, but after using simple process of elimination, I found out what I did wrong, and fixed the problem.

rofl I know the hop up isn't part of the gearbox (I'm not that big of a noob )

He was commenting on how I should change the motor.

I have been to mechbox.com, but it does not tell you how to align the gears correctly and such.

when I get the gun, I'll see what I can do.

thanks guys

EDIT

GEEZ!!!! Removing the barrel and hop up from a G36 is really complicated. It is extremely easy to get to the mechbox, but taking down the hop up is hard.

Replacing the motor is not hard you just unscrew the botton of the pistol grips pull out the motor unconnect the black and red wires (I think there black and red) and connect a new motor.

Yes, but how do you unconnect the wires? Wouldn't you need to sodder them? It's not as easy as it sounds, because you have to make sure the motor is aligned correctly and is at the correct height.

^No, it really is that easy. Most wires are just connected using quick disconnects. And adjusting the motor is as easy as turning that bottom screw while shooting the gun, and listening for when it sounds right. There is no alignment involved, either it goes in or it doesn't. If it doesn't, rotate the motor a bit and try again. Easy stuff. Easier than changing a hop-up, lol...

I stand corrected

OK, thats a bit complicated, Im to stupid to know about this type of stuff. BTW if you want to get a expensive scope you can. It is what you trust more, an expensive scope or a cheaper scope. Some people just feel more confortable with an expensive scope. Im not saying its any better......

If you get the G&G plastica you HAVE to get a new motor you can get a G&P one for 40$ off Evike. This is because the motor G&G includes is very bad and will only use full charged 9.6v batteries and will only use that battery for about 100 shots.

theprodigy wrote:

If you get the G&G plastica you HAVE to get a new motor you can get a G&P one for 40$ off Evike. This is because the motor G&G includes is very bad and will only use full charged 9.6v batteries and will only use that battery for about 100 shots.

How come SA's is working fine then? I think you got a lemon dude.

I want to get a 9.6 anyway, so that isn't a problem.

For 40 bucks more, I could just have bought a metal G&G

^^ The G&G plastic series have been rumored to have lower quality motors than the standard 25K high torque found in the standard G&G line. A rumor that has been backed up by airsoftgi, so I guess you can call it fact.

Don't let this deter you from getting the plastica series though, because EG1000s, and G&P M120 go pretty cheap nowadays, and are an excellent replacement for the crap motor that comes with the plastica G&Gs.

Well you can call airsoftgi yourself then and ask. They told me that G&G stuck a crappy motor in there and it is typical that it only sometimes work and I think SA got a lucky one and everyone else got bad ones. Have you seen their reviews on ASGI last time I checked there were six 1 stars and only one 3 star.



No fair Demosquad you only got your post off 2 min befor mine

I dont think the motors that come with them are crap......
100 rounds? Nonononono I have easily gotten 2000 rounds off on one 2000 mAh batery

And prodigy: that would be a little hard for him to do seeing as how ASGI has taken the package off the site, as they said they would when it came out...

I will say, it probabaly doesnt have the normal G&G motor, but the one it comes with is fine if you get a good enough battery.